Popular models in this category are the Black Diamond Twistlock Carabiner, the Petzl Am’D Locking Carabiner and the Petzl Sm’D Locking Carabiner (both available in other locking styles). The advantage is the carabiner locks itself quickly. Twist Lock carabiners have a spring loaded sleeve that self-rotates into the locked position when the gate is closed. The next style we are going to look at is a locking mechanism that requires some care to be safely used. See the maintenance section near the end of this post for tips on prevention. For ice climbing I have not found them to be less prone to getting iced up then any other style of carabiner. One final thought on screwgate carabiners… it has been noted that these mechanisms can be less prone to “gunking up” in dirty environments. I also find this carabiner to be a convenient way of keeping my quick-draws and alpine draws organized before or after the climb. There are also some situations where a large locking carabiner can make a convenient easy-to-use “master-point” at the anchor when climbing in parties of 3 or more. If I need to lower someone with a Munter-Hitch the wider “rope end” shape of the carabiner offers smoother lowering even when using thicker ropes. I do carry one larger Petzl William Locking Carabiner shown above which has a few advantages over the smaller locking carabiners I have already mentioned. The Petzl William Locking Carabiner easily organizes 6 quick-draws, 4 alpine draws, and my two “ mini-quads“. For use in a self-belay top-rope system (or a more robust rescue system) it pairs perfectly with the Petzl Micro Traxion Pulley pictured above. For improvised rescue (both multi-pitch trad and glacier travel) it pairs perfectly with the Petzl Tibloc. This carabiner is in a symmetrical oval shape which makes it ideal for use in both aid climbing and big wall climbing with the Petzl Ascension Handled Ascender. Petzl OK Locking Carabiner and Petzl Micro Traxion PulleyĪnother screw gate carabiner I carry is the Petzl OK Locking Carabiner. If you’ve ever arrived at a top-rope anchor to discover a locking carabiner has become unlocked during your session you’ll appreciate this added security feature in addition to the more well known “unlocked” red indicator, a nice visual clue that the carabiner is not locked. When used in this configuration the slightest of load basically eliminates the ability for these carabiners to unlock by vibration or even intentional hands. The reason these excel at this use is Petzl designed some grooves in the sleeve that interlock with the forged ribs of a reverse and opposed Petzl Attache. I also think a pair of the Petzl Attaches is the best choice for a top-rope master point and I carry two dedicated to this use. You can see that process in this quick video: I prefer a screwgate as my personal anchor carabiner while multi-pitch climbing since auto-locking styles do not facilitate tying a clove-hitch on to the carabiner as smoothly as a screwgate that you can leave unlocked until you want to lock it. These carabiners are suitable for any use in the climbing system from belaying and anchoring to creating a top-rope master point. Then perform a quick “squeeze” test to verify the carabiner is locked. Best practice is to simply screw the sleeve to where it stops easily turning then stop. A common error for beginning climbers is to screw this sleeve to tightly when locking the carabiner and finding it difficult to unscrew after the carabiner has seen load. This style has a “sleeve” on the gate that can be twisted until the sleeve is over a potion of the carabiner reducing the chance of the gate opening in any situation. The most common style of locking carabiner is the traditional screwgate. In this post we are going to take a close look at the notable differences in styles, shapes, and mechanisms along with making suggestions as to where in the climbing system certain models are best suited for both convenience and greater security. Locking carabiners are an integral part of the climbers kit.
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